Nestled within the Roman and Williams Guild in SoHo, La Mercerie offers not just a dining experience but an entryway into a realm where Parisian chic meets New York’s unmistakable vibrancy. At 53 Howard Street, this restaurant transcends the traditional boundaries of a meal out, inviting diners into a meticulously curated world where every dish, cocktail, and the surrounding ambiance reflects a commitment to excellence and aesthetic delight.
The Guild itself, a breathtaking fusion of interior design shop and restaurant, sets the stage for what’s to come. Here, the act of dining intertwines with the allure of shopping, making a visit to La Mercerie as much about savoring the visual feast of beautifully crafted goods as it is about the culinary journey. It’s an environment that compels you to linger, to explore, and to indulge in the sheer pleasure of beautiful things.
Upon settling into the warm and inviting space of La Mercerie, our evening began with a Deadwood Bourbon Old Fashioned, a cocktail that perfectly balances richness with a touch of sweetness, setting a high bar for the night ahead. The La Suave cocktail, a harmonious combination of rye whiskey, Chartreuse jaune, and Benedictine, further solidified La Mercerie’s cocktail mastery with its elegant blend of flavors. A bottle of Brisset Bourgogne Rouge, with its robust yet approachable character, accompanied our meal beautifully, bridging the gap between the opening libations and the culinary delights that followed.
The bread service, featuring irresistibly decadent bread accompanied by rich, salty French butter, was a simple yet profound pleasure, reminding one of the beauty in the basics when executed flawlessly. The Petit Tartare de Bœuf au Parmesan ($22) was a revelation, with its delicate balance of flavors and textures, demonstrating the kitchen’s prowess in elevating classic dishes.
The mains were a testament to Chef Marie-Aude Rose’s ability to harness the essence of French cuisine and present it with a contemporary flair. The Halibut au Beurre Blanc ($46) was a study in subtlety and sophistication, its delicate flesh enhanced by the silky, rich sauce. The Cabillaud à la Moutarde en Cocotte ($42) offered a slightly bolder flavor profile, with the mustard providing a piquant contrast to the tender cod. The Bœuf Bourguignon ($45), a classic dish reimagined, was both comforting and luxurious, its deep and meaty short rib flavors, married with traditionally French lardons on a cheeky bed of stortini pasta, showcased the careful craftsmanship behind each plate.
Dessert was a dreamy conclusion to the meal, with the Blushing Profiteroles ($17) stealing the show. The choux pastry, light and airy, filled with vanilla ice cream and drenched in hot chocolate sauce, was a sublime blend of textures and temperatures.
Service throughout the evening mirrored the French ethos of no-frills efficiency, marked by attentiveness and professionalism. While a touch more warmth would have been welcome, the service was impeccable, ensuring a seamless and enjoyable dining experience.
La Mercerie is more than a restaurant; it’s a celebration of the art of living well, where every detail contributes to a memorable gastronomic journey. With a 4.5 out of 5 stars rating, my anticipation for a return visit is tinged with the certainty that it will, once again, be an affair to remember. La Mercerie is not just a place to eat; it’s a destination to be experienced, cherished, and revisited.
La Mercerie can be found at 53 Howard Street, New York, NY | 212 852 9097
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