New restaurants rarely arrive fully formed. Like awkward debutantes, they often teeter their way through the first weeks, all nerves and inconsistencies, hopeful smiles hiding operational panic. So it was with some trepidation—and a backup bottle of wine—that we stepped into Fat Duck Tavern, freshly opened in Madison, Connecticut.

And what a pleasant surprise it turned out to be.

Located just off the main drag, Fat Duck Tavern’s exterior feels more medical office than modern bistro. But step inside and that changes quickly. The interior is warm and quietly stylish—sunlight filters through wide windows and lands gently on dark wood floors, cozy two-tops, and a few subtle duck-themed design flourishes that avoid veering into kitsch. There’s a comfort here, as if the space knows it doesn’t need to try too hard.

The tavern, still awaiting its liquor license at the time of our visit, offers mocktails or a welcoming BYOB policy. We arrived with a bottle of Montepulciano brought home from Italy, and the staff graciously provided glasses—tall, elegant stems that caught the light just right.

We began with the Flatbread ($14), a crisply baked canvas topped with brie, prosciutto, spiced fig jam, and a small scatter of arugula. The flavors were in perfect balance—the jam providing a mellow sweetness, the brie melting into a luxurious base, and the prosciutto offering a satisfying salinity. The portion wasn’t large, but it was well-judged for a starter. Though it took a bit longer to arrive than expected, the staff checked in, and the atmosphere (and wine) kept impatience at bay.

For mains, we split the Steak Frites ($36) and the Pork Tenderloin ($27).

The steak—a well-sized, beautifully seared New York strip—was cooked to a faultless medium rare and served with a cool horseradish cream that was just assertive enough. The parmesan-dusted fries were, frankly, show-stealers. Crisp on the outside, soft within, and seasoned to perfection—each one felt like it had been fussed over, which is a strange thing to say about a fry but also the only right thing.

The pork tenderloin was unexpectedly generous, nearly stretching across the plate. Paired with an apple cider glaze that walked the line between sweet and savory, the dish sat atop a silky celery root purée. Grilled asparagus added char and crunch, rounding out a dish that was comforting but not clumsy, elevated but not precious.

If there was a weak spot, it was the dessert menu—or, rather, the lack thereof. Only one option: Banana Foster Bread Pudding ($10). We passed, not for lack of curiosity, but because it simply wasn’t calling to us. A future visit may tempt us back for it—or, hopefully, a few new additions.

There’s something lovely about finding a place that feels like it belongs—not in some grand culinary revolution, but simply in a town. Fat Duck Tavern isn’t flashy, and that’s the point. It’s thoughtful, confident, and quietly ambitious, with a kitchen that seems to care a great deal about flavor and balance. Once the cocktail program gets rolling, I suspect the bar will become a destination of its own.

For now, it’s the kind of place you want to return to. The kind you root for. And the kind, even after just one week of service, that already feels like a local favorite in the making.

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Fat Duck Tavern is off to an impressive start, with thoughtful, well-executed dishes and a cozy, welcoming atmosphere that already feels like a local favorite. One reason it’s not a higher rating—for now—is the pending liquor license. While the BYOB policy worked perfectly for our visit, the absence of a cocktail program leaves one piece of the experience still to come. Additionally, the single-item dessert menu—though possibly delightful—felt a bit limiting and left us wishing for a few more sweet options to round out the meal. Based on the care and quality already evident in the kitchen, I’m confident that once these elements are in place, this rating will only go up.

Fat Duck Tavern can be found at 44 Boston Post Rd, Madison, CT 06443 | Reservations on OpenTable